Maia Spins

Mystery Sock part 4

Have you forgotten about my mystery sock?  I hope not!

It is all about transitioning to the ribbing and making the back of the leg pretty.  You can make the ribbing shorter or longer to suit your style or the amount of yarn remaining.

If you want to make a shorter version, you can start the ribbing at round 59 on chart 2.  Yes, that is on the foot before the heel is turned.  You could also do another cable and then start the ribbing after round 75.

Tomorrow, I'll show you a fun felting project made with a new friend.

Mystery Sock part 3

Part 3 - On to the heel shaping!

Follow the chart until the sole side of the sock measures approximately 6.75 inches for the small size, 7.5 inches for the medium size, and 8.5 inches for the large size. End on an even row. This pattern assumes a high arch. If you have low arches, work the chart 0.5 inches less than the measurements given above.

Click on the image for a full size version of the chart.

Abbreviations
RS: Right side of sock
WS: wrong side of sock
k2tog: knit 2 stitches together knitwise
p2tog: purl 2 stitches together
ssk: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place back on left needle and knit through the back of the loop.
ssp: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place back on left needle and purl through the back of the loop.  It is a bit tricky, but worth it.

Heel Shaping
Use only the stitches on the sole needle(s). If you are using double pointed needles, you may want to put all the sole stitches on one needle. Start on a wrong side (WS) row as follows:
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work. Continue in this manner until you have 10 heel stitches remaining unworked, ending on a RS row. There should be 10 stitches on each side of the heel stitches. Turn work.

Now we need to incorporate these stitches. You should be on a WS row.
(WS) slip1 purlwise, p8, ssp, p1, turn work.
(RS) slip1 knitwise, k9, k2tog, k1, turn work.
(WS) slip1 purlwise, p10 , ssp, p1, turn work.
(RS) slip1 knitwise, k11, k2tog, k1, turn work.
Continue in this manner until all the stitches have been incorporated. There will be fewer stitches now than when you started the heel shaping. You should have 20 heel stitches.

The heel shaping isn’t quite complete. We still need to incorporate some of the stitches from the instep needle(s). Shift 6 stitches (3 from each side of the instep stitches) from the instep needle(s) to the sole needle(s). You will now have 34 stitches on the instep needle(s) if you are on rows 75 - 79, 35 stitches for rows 81 - 95.

Start with the first heel stitch (yes, you do need to slip some of the stitches you just shifted to get to the heel stitches).
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, p18, p2tog (incorporates one stitch), turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, k18, ssk (incorporates one stitch), turn work.
Repeat both rows one more time. There will be a gap between the remaining unworked stitch and the heel stitches, make 1, this will tighten up that spot.

You should now have 24 sole stitches and 34 or 35 instep stitches. If you are using double pointed needles, go back to 2 needles for the sole stitches. You will resume knitting in the round.

Start the Leg
Continue working the chart as shown. It will be the same as on the foot with one exception. The patterning will not end at the edge of the instep stitches. Now you will shift the patterning around to the back of the leg and toward the centerline of the back of the leg.

ETA: a chart that shows what happens at the back of the leg.  As Always, click for a larger picture.

We are almost done! The last part will finish the sock.

Notes on the chart. I trimmed off most of the foot to make it a manageable size. the horizontal line indicates where the last chart left off. The variable stitch count depends on where you start the heel. Before the heel turn it is the larger number, after the heel turn it is the smaller number.

Mystery Sock part 2

It is so fun to see mystery toes showing up.  Thank you to everyone who is playing along!

Part 2 works the foot up to the heel turn.  The chart is starting to look strange.  There are increases that shift the pattern on the chart to make it look like it doesn't line up.  I should line up on the sock itself.

Click on the image for a full size image. 

The print is fairly small on an 8.5 x 11 inch sheet so here is a chart of just the instep stitches.  You'll still need the image with the sole stitches to know where the sole decreases occur.

I will be at the California Wool & Fiber Festival until late Sunday.  If I don't have internet access there I'll answer any questions on Monday.

Did I mention that in the middle of a massive dyeing push Sammie dug his way out of our back yard to follow a skunk?  Oh yes.  He was hit right between the eyes with a big blast of skunk stink.  I think I will enjoy being away from the house for a few days.

Here is Sammie in his new favorite spot.

It is a pot in the courtyard that doesn't have a plant in it at the moment.  What a goofball!

Mystery Socks

I have a mystery sock to share with you.  It is a sock designed by me and given out in 4 parts.  There are no pictures, hence the mystery.  If you are on Ravelry, you can play along in the Sock Knitters Anonymous group.

Scherherazade's Slippers                                        

This pattern worked toe-up and is a little different in its construction. I recommend that you be an intermediate to advanced knitter. It starts with a bit of cabling and moves into a bit of lace.

Yarn: I recommend a solid or slightly variegated yarn. Pick a yarn that will have a firm gauge. The gauge varies depending on the size of sock you are making (see below).                                        

Sizes: one chart works for three sizes:
Women's Large (US shoe size 9-11): use a gauge of 6.5 sts/in.
Women's Medium (US shoe size 6-8): use a gauge of 7 sts/in.
Women's Small (US shoe size 3-5): use a gauge of 7.5 sts/in.

Abbreviations:
RC4 Right Cross Cable, place 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold at the front of the work, k2, k2 from cable needle.
LC4 Left Cross Cable, place 2 stitches on a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, k2, k2 from cable needle.
Make 1 increase Lift the bar between the stitch just worked and the next stitch, knit it through the back of the loop.
Make 1 purl increase Lift the bar between the stitch just worked and the next stitch, purl it through the back of the loop.
Purl into the back of the stitch This increase happens where two increases are next to each other and two Make 1 increases can't be worked. Work the increase by knitting into the back of the loop of the stitch just knit (the last stitch of a cable).
k2tog knit two stitches together knitwise by putting the needle into the second stitch, followed by the first stitch on the left needle and knitting them as one. ssk slip 1 knitwise, slip1 knitwise, place both slipped stitches back on the left needle and knit them through the back of the loop.

Cast on 28 stitches.  I use Judy's Magic Cast-On.  Turkish Cast-On will also work.  Follow the chart.

Click on the chart to see a larger version of the chart.

Even rows: knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches.

Let me know if you have any questions or if something doesn't make sense.

Next week we will work the foot.

Errata: September 4, 2007.  The chart has been updated due to a small error on line 25.  You should knit 1 instead of k2tog on the instep between the cables.  Thank you Pat for catching that.

I am also working on another sock. 

I am calling this one Everlasting.  The colors aren't quite right (I was being a lazy picture taker).  The yarn is from Knitted Wit in the Going To The Mall colorway.  I bought it at Twisted on my Portland yarn crawl last weekend. 

Here is a picture of the yarn where the colors are more accurate:

I like the yarn a lot.  It has more texture than I'd like, but I love the splatter dye with the short color bursts.  No pooling here!

Banana Blossom Arrives

I have finally finished my pattern for the Banana Blossom Socks (link opens to a pdf).  You may recall them from my Design a Lace Sock tutorial for Socktoberfest.  Yes people, that means I am overdue since October!  But, let's just focus on the fact that the pattern is done and posted (linked above and in the side bar with the other freebees) for your knitting pleasure.  Mkay?

It was a bit fussy to write and I procrastinated for quite a while because a graceful pattern wasn't evolving.  I am fairly happy with the pattern write up.  My one complaint is that the increases and decreases for the leg shaping make the chart less user friendly than I'd like.  I agonize over my patterns even though they are free.  It is my inner perfectionist.

As always, let me know if you find an error, a bit of confusion, or just have a question.  Also, please send pictures of the completed socks if you make the pattern.  I'd love to add you to my gallery.  I know my sock patterns have been downloaded many times and I have not seen a single picture yet. (insert pouty face here)  I may have to bribe with a bit of handspun goodness for the first pictures (of any of my sock patterns) that I get.

The pattern for these socks always make me think of Debi.  She has been politely reminding me to finish the pattern.  I want to dedicate it to her.  She is celebrating her second blogiversary.  Please pop over and wish her well.  She also has a nice contest going to celebrate the occasion.  Happy Blogiversary Debi!

I started a new sock.  It qualifies under the KISS principle (Keep It Simple Stupid).  I am trying to have a simple, portable project that is easy to pick up and put down.  Perfect for  . . . say a doctors appointment.   The pattern stitch is a four row repeat (two of which are mere knitting).  Now, I just need to remember to put it down and save it for those times when I need a KISS project.

It is going to be tough to put this down.  I am completely in love with the yarn.  It is the same sport weight Wensleydale yarn I used for the Penny Socks (link opens to a pdf).  I dyed it the last time I took a class with Nancy Roberts of Machine Knitting To Dye For.  Go visit her site if you haven't been there before.  Don't be put off by the M-word (machine), she has inspiration up the wazoo and is a fabulous teacher.

The colors are brick red, brown, and tan.  Wensleydale has a great luster.  Dang, I love thee Wensleydale.  There is a fairly low contrast between the colors so the stripes are subtle.  I was channeling my inner man for some manly colorways and I loveLOVElove this one.  Manly, yes, but I like it too.

Cable Embrace

Here is the latest Red Scarf off the needles.  I am calling it Cable Embrace because the zig zags seem to embrace the center cable and the name gives me the warm-fuzzies.

The free pattern is posted in the left side bar or you can click here.

I never got bored of this scarf and I bore easily.  It is not a coincidence that I make a lot of small projects.

The yarn is a 100% Superwash wool called Bazic Wool from Classic Elite.  It is a very nice heavy worsted weight yarn comprised of thick and thin singles plied together and then 3 of these plied again.  The result is a springy yarn that has a bit of a twist to it when knit up.  It is a delight to knit with, doesn't split, and makes a nice firm and wefty fabric.  My only complaint is that it is a bit pricey.

A close-up you say?  Why sure.

Errata:
Tami pointed out that the directions say cast on 35 sts when you really need to cast on 37 sts.  Thank you for catching that Tami.  A corrected version posted on 10/17/2006.

Scarf Around

These scarves were knit in the round with steeks.  The steeks were sized so that the stitches there would become the fringe.  The pattern is available as a pdf here or at the link in the left bar.

The pattern was written for this scarf which uses Cascade 220 (color 2413) and sari silk yarn.  The pattern is pretty simple, a combination of garter and stockinette.

This scarf is the 3 color variation.  It uses 1 skein of Cascade 220 (color 2413), 1+ skein of Nashua Handknits Wooly Stripe (color 31 Fiesta), and 1/2 skein of Crystal Palace Party ribbon yarn (color 211 lacquer red).  I ended up needing a tiny bit of a second skein of the wooly stripe; decreasing the number of stitches to 220+22 for the fringe/steek would probably keep it at one skein (your knitting mileage may vary).

The pattern contains a lot of photographs.  I want to add them here as well (my apologies to those of you on dial-up) so they can be viewed at a larger size (all are clickable).

Casting on is a little different.  This is necessary to make the fringe work.  It starts with a slip knot loop 9 inches long.  The slip knot is held below the needle and the long tail cast-on proceeds like usual.

I use string or stitch markers to mark cast-on stitches in groups of 20.  It helps me to cast-on the right number with a lot less hassle.

The cast-off is a little different too.  There is no need to cast-off the steek stitches since they will be unraveled.  The last stitch loop does need to be secured by pulling the tail through.  The tail should be trimmed long enough to become part of the fringe.

Here's the steek.  You can see that all the steek stitches are knit.  I did this so I could easily see the limits of the steek.

Let's cut it!  It is fun, just take your time and only cut the running thread between the center two steek stitches.

Unravel the steek stitches at each end of the scarf.  This is the fringe.

Knot the fringe.  All that is left is to wash and block the scarf.  Wetting the fringe will remove the crinkles.  Trim the fringe after it is dry for the straightest edge to the fringe.

I had a lot of fun making these scarves.  I plan to make at least one more using all the bits and pieces of red yarn.  I think I will try doing it in seed or moss stitch so I can play with that texture.  Any pattern stitch that will give a flat, non-curling fabric should work.  Be sure to adjust the number stitches to work with the pattern stitch and think about whether it will look appropriate on a scarf that is knit lengthwise.  I would love to see what you do with the pattern.

Red Scarf Patterns

My first scarf for the Red Scarf Project is done!  Yes, it is not red.  It is Rowan Tapestry in the Rustic colorway.  Soft, warm, and gender neutral.

I am pleased with how it turned out.  I am also pleased to offer the pattern so you can make one too.  The pattern is available here, or at my free pattern links on the left bar.  I added tips and ideas on how to customize the pattern.

If you make the pattern, I would love to see it.  Please send me a picture or a link to a picture.  Also, let me know if you find an error or have a question. 

In the pattern I have two versions.  Version 1 is above.  Done. Finished.  Blocked.  Version two is still on the needles; I had to pick up an extra skein of yarn from the good folks over at Studio Knit.  Pictures will follow shortly after I finish it.

To make sure I have at least 12 WIPs, I have started another scarf for the The Project.  Here is a peek at the swatch.  Yup.  Red.

Pattern Errata:

10/17/2006 - There was an error in the increase portion  of the chart fort Scarf 1, specifically Row 23.  Thank you to Lauren for catching it.

11/6/2006 - Lauren caught an error on the decrease portion of Scarf 1.  A corrected version is up now.  Thank you Lauren.

Henry's Blanket

It is done and I am pleased with the results.  It is a simple stockinette stitch with yarnover increases and a bit of open work. I gave it a seed stitch edge with yarnovers on the penultimate row.  I didn't want it to require blocking after each washing; not a realistic request to make of parents with a new born baby.  It is about 32 inches across and very cute.

Each wedge looks a bit like a sleeping face.  I didn't consciously do this, but I am very happy to discover it. This blanket could be very cute with an overall pattern stitch (perhaps one that doesn't curl), or as a way to use up bits and pieces of sport weight yarn.  I have more than a few ideas for the next one I make.

The yarnover increases between the wedges have a cool way of shifting up.  See what I mean?

Here is a shot of the center.  I used a crocheted chain to form the center.  It has a clean look. 

Now I need a picture of the handsome tyke modeling his new blankie. :-)

The free pattern is available on the left or by clicking here.

Edits:

9/15/2006: Ariel asked what she should do on odd number rows.  Silly me, I forgot to mention that all odd rows (except row 1 which is picking up the stitches from the crocheted ring) are knit.  Fun mindless knit. YAY!  Well, until the seed stitch edge where you'll want to keep doing seed stitch.  Thanks for catching that Ariel.

Big Bag Pattern

I have posted a free pattern for the Stitch-N-Pitch fulled bag I made in lovely San Francisco Giants colors.  There is now a link to this pattern on the left.  I plan on adding more patterns.  The next one will probably be the item I made for my One Skein pal.  I am waiting until it arrives at her door before I post about it.

Let me know what you think, especially if you find a mistake.

Errata:
10/31/06 Janice caught an error in the number of stitches picked up for the second short side.  The pattern is corrected now.  Thank you Janice.