Warning: This is a very picture heavy post. Click on any picture to see a larger version.
I am a big fan of toe-up socks. Partly because I have large feet and I always worry about running out of yarn and partly because it just feels right to me. I also have high arches. Afterthought and short-row heels don't give me the fit I am looking for. I have been searching for the right heel and have even invented a few. My Penny Socks and Banana Blossom Socks use two different attempts at finding the "right heel". Both work in these patterns, but neither one is versatile enough to be used on any sock at any gauge.
I started thinking about heel construction and realized that I was trying to reinvent the wheel. Why not turn a top-down heel upside down?
It is pretty simple. And, it works at all gauges. I have tested it on socks knit at 6 sts/in and socks at 9.5 sts/in (shown in this tutorial) as well as fingering weight socks. This tutorial will work the math for this sock for my foot (10.25 inches long). I incorporate negative ease in the circumference and a little bit in the length of the foot because I like a snug fit. You should adapt this to suit your foot. I would love to hear what you learn.
Please note that the numbers in this tutorial are for the sock shown. I have tried to make calculating these numbers straightforward. (Let me know if this is not the case.) You will need to calculate the numbers you need if you are using a different number of stitches.
This tutorial is designed for a high arch. For a lower arch, see the modifications at the bottom.
Knit your sock from the toe-up using your favorite methods. When it reaches about 65% of the total length of your foot you will start on the heel flap. The math for calculating this is 10.25 inches x 0.65 = 6.7 inches. I usually use about 6.5 inches.
The first time I used this method, I made the flap with all of the sole stitches. The flap seemed to come up too far over my heel and it looked a bit clunky. Now I use 2/3 of the sole stitches and it has a much cleaner look. This sock is knit on 80 stitches, 40 soles stitches and 40 instep stitches. So 40 sts x 2/3 = 26.7 sts. I want an even number, either 26 or 28. I used 26 sts for the flap. This mean 14 sole stitches will remain unworked. They are shown on the lower horizontal needle (7 sts on each side of the flap). I don't knit with that needle as shown, it is just to help you see what I'm doing; it is awkward and unnecessary to have it there. I place the extra stitches on the adjacent needles. The pins are to keep the flap from rolling while I took the picture.
Work until the sock including the flap measures about 90 - 95% of the total length of your foot. End on a right side (RS) row. 10.25 inches x 0.95 = 9.7 inches. I used 9.5 inches. Again the lower horizontal needle and pins are just for clarity.
Here is what the sock looks like without the second horizontal needle. It looks like a tie to me.
On to the heel shaping. First we need to determine the number of heel stitches we will use. The heel stitches will be the middle stitches (you'll see what they are in a minute). I use 1+ inches. In this case 10 stitches. We need the remaining flap stitches to be divisible by 4. Since this flap is worked on 26 sts and we are using 10 heel stitches, that leaves 16 stitches (I call them side stitches) which is divisible by 4.
Heel shaping starts on a wrong side (WS) row as follows:
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
Continue in this manner until you have only the heel stitches (10) remaining, ending on a RS row. In this case it is 10 heel stitches. There should be 8 stitches on each side of the heel stitches. 8 +10 + 8 = 26 = the total number of flap stitches. Turn work to the WS.
Now we need to incorporate these stitches. You should be on a WS row.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches - 2 (for this sock it is 10 - 2 = 8), slip=slip-purl (SSP, see below), purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches - 1 (10 - 1 = 9), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches (10), SSP, purl 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches + 1 (10 + 1 = 11), k2tog, knit 1, turn work. Even number of stitches remaining on left needle. Continue in this manner until all the side stitches have been incorporated. There will be fewer stitches now than you worked on the flap. Half of the side stitches have been decreased by the SSP's and k2tog's. For this sock, there should be 10 heel stitches plus half of the side stitches (10 + 16/2 = 10 + 8 = 18).
Here is another view of the heel from the side. As you can see there are no holes, just a clean look.
Now we need to pick up gusset stitches along each side of the flap. To make this easier, I evenly divide the stitches at the heel onto 2 needles.
Pick up one stitch in every slipped stitch along the side of the flap. I pick up both loops of the slipped stitch because I prefer that look. When you get to the base of the flap there will be a gap between the last slipped stitch and the rest of the foot stitches.
Pick up one more stitch (gap stitch), one row below the last slipped stitch. With the same needle, work across the sole stitches that were set aside when you reduced the flap to 2/3 of the sole stitches. I like to do this so that when I work the gusset decreases, I am not at a gap between needles. It helps to keep the decreases snug and clean looking. It also returns the stitches on the instep needles to their original number.
Repeat (but in reverse) for the other side of the flap. When all of the stitches are picked up, it will look like this. I now consider the back of the heel to be the start of the round. Work one round before the gusset decreases.
We will now decrease the gusset stitches until we are back to the original number of stitches at the foot (80 for this sock). Since the instep needles are restored to their original number of stitches (20 each), we will decrease until the sole needles have the same number of stitches (20 x 4 = 80).
For a clean look I like to align the gusset decreases with the column of stitches adjacent to the flap stitches.
Here is an annotated version of the gusset decrease alignment. As it happens, the cleanest look comes from using the gap stitch as the line for decreasing.
Decreases are worked as follows:
Work from the back of the heel to one stitch before the first gap stitch, k2tog, work to the second gap stitch, ssk, work the rest of the round. Repeat this decrease round on every other row until you have the correct number of stitches.
Here is how it will look after a few rounds.
And, after decreases are complete.
Finish the leg and cuff as you desire.
A pdf version of this tutorial will be is available shortly (as a link in the side bar with the other tutorial links).
Abbreviations:
k2tog: knit two stitches together by putting your needle into the second stitch and then the first stitch.
ssk: slip, slip, knit. Slip 1 knitwise (as if to knit), slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle and knit the stitches together through the back of the loop.
SSP: slip, slip, purl. Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle, purl the two stitches together by putting the needle through the back of the second stitch and then the first stitch (see picture at right).
sts: abbreviation for stitches.
Tips:
Pull all slipped stitches tight. This will help prevent holes at the heel shaping.
I find it easiest to do the gusset decreases on pattern rows (assuming that the pattern stitch is worked on every other row). That way I know all the thinking is happening on one round. It helps me keep track of what I'm doing.
Modifications:
For a lower arch, work the foot longer, maybe to 75% of the total foot length. The flap will still be worked until it is 90 - 95% of the total foot length. The flap will end up shorter and therefor you will have fewer stitches to pick up along the flap and fewer stitches to decrease.
You may want to adjust the number of flap stitches slightly to work with the stitch pattern at the leg.
I hope you find this tutorial helpful. Please let me know if you have any questions.
I view my tutorials and patterns as guidelines. Please make any modifications that make sense for your style and fit. And, then, tell me what you have learned.
UPDATE: January 10, 2008Lilli in Finland has posted a Finnish translation of this tutorial. It is worth checking out even if you don't speak Finnish. She has mad a chart of the heel turn that is quite helpful. Thank you Lilli!
Another home run tutorial Maia! Thanks! I know I will be using these tips since I also have high arches, prefer toe-up socks but do not like to work short row heels everytime! ? for ya, the yarn you are using for that sock, is it available online?
Posted by: Rebecca | May 12, 2007 at 07:46 PM
It is on my todo list! I'm dying for a good toe up heel. I've got the same fit problems as you do.
By the way, I've been contemplating your Penny socks. Both they and the Banana Blossom socks are on the todo list. Anyway, what weight yarn did you use for the Penny socks? It says sportweight, but it looks like sockweight in the pick. I always think of sport weight as slightly heavier and this has put me off the pattern.
Posted by: LaurieM | May 12, 2007 at 07:58 PM
Sounds wonderful and I cannot wait to try this out. I have never done toe-up because I just don't like the look, but this not only looks great, but gives me the option to go sans pattern!! Thankyou!
Posted by: Jamisyn | May 13, 2007 at 05:48 AM
Great! Can't wait to try it...after I saw your previous post looked for "toe up socks with heel flap" and now I have lots of things to try.
Thanks for the super instructions!
Posted by: ck | May 13, 2007 at 07:02 AM
I think I understand it! Might be better if I was actually doing it as I read the instructions.
Posted by: Marina | May 13, 2007 at 12:04 PM
Great! I'll try it!
Posted by: AuntieAnn | May 13, 2007 at 01:03 PM
I've done socks like these, too, and really like how they come out. Here's a suggestions that works well when I make socks for my husband - when you make the flap for the bottom of the foot, you can use the same slip one-knit one stitch that you use on top-down socks. He's really hard on the bottom of his sock heels, and the slip one-knit one really makes them last longer.
How do you start off your toe-up socks? I've figured out a technique that works for me - I cast on half the total number of stitches I want and then, on the first real row, knit into the front and back of each stitch. On the next row, I separate the stitches so that every other stitch is on a second needle. That gives two parallel needles, each with half the stitches, and although the next row is a little awkward to knit, it works out pretty well once you start knitting around on them. (Pictures work better than words, here!)
Faith
Posted by: Faith | May 13, 2007 at 03:05 PM
Thanks Maia! Good news is that I love your tutorial. Bad news is that I just finished turning the heel on my current pairs of socks.
I'm usually not a frogger but I'm seriously contemplating it.
Posted by: Chante | May 13, 2007 at 06:32 PM
You are officially given the Knitting Goddess tiara!!!
Posted by: Janine B. | May 13, 2007 at 10:14 PM
Wow, that looks great! When I gather my courage to try toe-up again, I'll give this heel a try too. Thanks!
Posted by: elizabeth | May 14, 2007 at 08:28 AM
Oh, what great info. I don't particularly care for toe-ups only because no matter what cast off I use, it never seems as stretchy as my top-down method. I'm definitely a heel flap kinda knitter so I'm going to give your method a try. I have some Koigu that I should knit toe-up because of low yardage...
Posted by: Elinor | May 18, 2007 at 05:57 AM
A wonderful tutorial. I was trying to figure out how to make a toe-up heel flap with someone and it boggled my mind. I thought you gusset increase first. Tricky thing. You made it very clear. Lovely, lovely yarn too!
Posted by: Sonya | June 02, 2007 at 08:09 AM
I LOVE the pattern you have going on. I suck at making socks lol I have wide feet and they are big lol haa haa joy to be me huh! Do you have the pattern for the sock? I am one that has to read it word for word and follow it close ( not a book person more a visual one) please let me know if you think i can do it lol and i really love the pattern you did.. and how do you do your toe???? I have a pattern and it is a box toe... would like to try something new.
Hugs,
Ness
Posted by: Vanessa | June 02, 2007 at 07:47 PM
Hola,me parece interesante tu propuesta para confeccionar calcetines, pero puedes decirme si sabes de una pagina en espaƱol donde pueda encontrar la misma explicaciĆ³n
Posted by: Rossy | July 11, 2007 at 10:14 PM
What a great idea! I had never thought of just doing it backwards. Thanks for this.
Posted by: Kristy | August 16, 2007 at 11:41 AM
I've seen your idea used a fiar bit lately, and could never find your link. Today, I find you, yea. I was close to understanding it from pictures, but its so nice to have something to read, and follow when I try this at home later this week.
What an great idea.
Posted by: Needles | October 16, 2007 at 04:25 PM
Hi! I am from Finland and my English is not very good, sorry, but I like your great sock and its heel idea very much. I have done some socks for Christmas presents and am going to show them after Christmas Eve 25.12. on my blog. Now I am asking for You if I can put a short Finnish translation, with graphic, of the pattern to my blog? I hope that you understand what I mean!
Posted by: Titiri | December 02, 2007 at 03:14 PM
Hello. I tried to download your toe up gusset heel tutorial pdf, but I was getting messages that the file was damamged, and the pdf only showed one page. Just letting you know!
Posted by: Amy | February 13, 2008 at 01:54 PM
Thank you SO much. I've made many socks with the 'hybrid heel' from Priscilla Gibson-Roberts' book but longed for the look of a gusset. It's wonderful that a creative mind like yours can share info so easily these days!
Posted by: Azalea | March 06, 2008 at 01:49 PM
Maia - I really wish at this moment that you lived next door to me so that I could bake you some of your favorite cookies and bring them over as thanks. I have searched and searched for some confirmation that I'm doing this exact technique correctly, and your pictures are just what I needed. Phew! I can sleep at ease tonight - and who knows, soon I might even have a finished pair of socks!
Posted by: Marce | April 24, 2008 at 07:29 PM
i wish you would make a utube video of this. i think it would be great for those work best that way.
Posted by: sandy | December 16, 2008 at 12:38 PM
Thanks so much for the tutorial! This heel works like a charm.
Posted by: Mike | January 09, 2009 at 01:59 PM
Thank you! Just what I was looking for since my spatial relations ability is nil -- I have done this before, and couldn't recall exactly how the heel was done, so the pictures and the notation to not do ALL the stitches is massively helpful.
After I finish, I am going to be the cool kid in my knitting group!
Posted by: Andrea | February 27, 2009 at 04:10 PM
You win! You win toe-up socks. I am such a visual learner, I scoured the interwebs for someone who would just post dang photos of the toe-up process, and Voila! there was your pattern. Simple. Intuitive. Adaptable. Beautiful. Fits like a (foot) glove. Also, the sock you knit and the yarn you used are drop dead gorgeous.
Thank you thank you thank you!
Posted by: Teresa | September 15, 2009 at 04:52 AM
Thanks for a beautiful heel. I`m a toe up knitter now, but this heel is the prettiest.
Posted by: Ennasus | September 29, 2009 at 10:51 AM
SO AWESOME! THANK YOU! I cannot wait to print this out so I can use it over and over!
Posted by: Talya | January 27, 2010 at 08:07 PM
I love your socks so much and I am trying to learn using your tutorial. But, I am probably gusset chalenged, or my knitting english is not to good. Second day and hundreds times later, i still dont understand it. First of all, i have different numbers to begin with. My sock is 52 stitches, which will give me 26 sole. I put 5 and 5 aside, and worked my flap on 16 stitches. How to calculate my heel then?. I tried 5 and 5 and 6 and got all confused. Is there a formula to calculate? Sorry for so many questions, but i love your heel so much and want to learn.
Posted by: Lana | May 18, 2010 at 06:57 PM
Today I pulled out a toe up sock to just before the heel gusset. I love the look of this gusset so will give it a go. Many thanks
Posted by: Scrapyparcs | September 26, 2010 at 01:06 PM
thank you thank you thank you
Posted by: Andi | April 10, 2011 at 09:55 PM
This is the best heel ever - easy to knit and fits the best. What I really would love to have is the lacy pattern used for this sock. Is it available, please?
Posted by: TrixieW | September 09, 2011 at 08:00 AM
Dear Maria
I am a new one to sock and paging thru all the sockspatt I came across your patt which begins at the toe I would like to try it but the heel gives me trouble to understand, can I copy your pattern so that I can keep it next to me while I am knitting
Thank you Jeanette Pickford
[email protected]
Posted by: Jeanette Pickford | September 15, 2011 at 10:26 PM