Maia Spins

Out of Shape

I am so out of blogging shape.  It feels like a muscle that hasn't been exercised in a while.  Why yes, it is a muscle that hasn't been used in a while!  What's my excuse?  Busy.  I know, it is a rather flabby excuse (but thematic!).

I have been so bad that I never told you about my NYC trip in *cough, cough* October.  I went to six NYC yarn stores!  Would it be too late?  For those of you who are Lyle Lovett fans, it is not too late, I can make it a cheeseburger.  For the rest of you, please pardon my free association brain.

While I have been slacking, Lilli in Finland has been busy!  She came across my Toe-up Gusseted Heel Tutorial and used it liberally in her holiday knitting.  Just look at all those lovely socks!  She has even done a Finnish translation of my tutorial!  Check it out even if you don't speak Finnish; she made a great chart of the heel turn that is very handy.  Thank you Lilli! 

I have been doing a bit of knitting.  There are several sock patterns waiting in the wings including a pair I made for my grandmother.  Sweet little cables in a fingering weight yarn that I indigo dyed.  More details soon when I post the pattern.

It is a good thing I have been making new socks.  Half of my socks have turned up with holes in them lately.  Here is my big ole stack of sadness.  One of my all time favorites, my BFL handspun socks are in there.  They have just one hole on the ball of my foot where most of my socks fail first.  Anyone have a brilliant idea for recycling old socks or sock darning resources?  I want to try to salvage some of them.  I'd hate to use Stephanie's method of standing over the garbage can and loudly exclaiming "darn socks!".

Speaking of asking for advice, I have decided what I will do with my 2-ply Morehouse Merino yarn.  Thank you for the votes and great ideas.  As some of you suggested, I am playing with modular patterns.  I think I know what I want to do; I just need the right size double pointed needles.  I like the cheap metal ones available at chain craft stores.  Unfortunately, my local chain craft store doesn't believe in maintaining stock.  Grrr!  More on that project soon.

In recent news regarding knitting and social events, I went to Becca's New Year, New Project Knit-in.  We were required to bring and start a new project.  I learned that I am not good at starting new projects in public.  I wanted to start a new pair of socks based on a sock pattern I'd already knit (called Hudson Line, it is one of my new patterns coming soon).  This pair was in a different yarn at a slightly different gauge.  I spent time fiddling with formatting the pattern stitch for the new yarn, plinking around in my laptop (my master spreadsheet of socky goodness), and swatching.  Finally, a toe was created.  It is a great to except that the gauge is too loose.  I need a needle size that I didn't have on me.  Sad.  That is the downfall of liking cheap needles, you have no qualms about leaving sets in abandoned WIPs indefinitely.  It is easier to go buy more.  Maybe. 

Bad blogger that I am, I didn't take any pictures to blog.  (Recall the flabby blog muscle syndrome mentioned aove.)  Hopefully our lovely host will fill in the details soon.  I did get to see the Knit Picks metal sock needle set in person.  Celia had one and I had to use all my restraint to not steal it.  It has US sizes 0-3 in both metric versions of size 1 & 2.  Huh?  Yup, that means 2.25mm AND 2.5mm, both referred to as size 1 and 2.75mm AND 3mm, both referred to as size 2!  Best of all, they have nice pointy points.  Love that!  My set is already in the mail.

It must be time for a nap after this blog work-out.  Or maybe a strong cup of tea. 

Sidewinders on 2 Circular Needles

I have been bewitched by Sidewinders lately.  Currently, I am knitting my third pair.  I haven't knit any pattern three times, not even my own.  There is a lot to explore with this pattern.  Along the way I have come up with a few modifications.

The biggest modification is knitting them with two circular needles.Not only does it eliminate the toe seam, it has the added benefit of decreasing the number of stitches that need to be grafted.   To do this I start (and end) at the ankle instead of along the centerline of the bottom of the foot/back of the leg.   

The other modification is a gusset for a little extra room in the ankle, especially nice for those of us with high arches.  This gusset (for lack of a better word) can be done with Nona's original design or my version.  See the gusset information at the bottom of the post.

Here is a preview of the finished sock:

I am using Mama E's C*EYE*ber Fiber sock yarn in the Glamour colorway. 

Click on any image to see a larger version.

Getting Started:

The first step is to download Nona's fabulous pattern, Sidewinders: A PerpenSOCKular pattern.  Once you have selected your size, make a note of the number of stitches at the ankle (between Acts I & II and between Acts III & IV).  In my size (9-10 medium), that is 97 stitches.  Please note that I shortened the leg of my sock; I will use the numbers given by Nona for my size as written to help you find your place in her pattern.

You will also need two circular needles in a size that gives you the correct stitch and row gauge.  Row gauge does matter for this pattern. 

Note: If your row gauge is a little off, see the tips below.

Knowing how to knit on two circulars is required for this method.  The part you need to understand is that the sole stitches are on one circular needle and the instep stitches are on another circular needle.  When you are working on the instep stitches, you use both ends of the instep needle.  When you are working on the sole stitches, you use both ends of the sole needle.  The instep stitches will never move to the sole needle and vice versa.

You may be able to modify this pattern for Magic Loop.  I don't use this method, but as I understand it, it should be possible.  Let me know if you try it.

Cast-On:

Using the Turkish cast-on, cast-on the number of stitches given for your size at the ankle.  For me it is 97 stitches.  Do not divide the number in half to make a total of 97 stitches.  You want 97 stitches on each needle.  (Remember, I am using the number for my size, your size may be different.)  Knit across both needles.  We will place our stitch markers on the next row.   

Note: Several people have asked if Judy's Magic Cast-On will work.    While I am a big fan of Judy's cast-on (and almost always use it for toe-up socks), I don't think it is the best cast on for this situation.  It would be possible if you slide all the stitches on the bottom needle (the one not being worked)onto the cable.  The issue I see is that you'll end up with two rows of cast-on stitches instead of the one row with Turkish.  Not an insurmountable problem.  If you try it, let me know how it works for you.

Your sock should look something like this:

The picture does show some stitch markers in place.  Don't worry that yours aren't in yet.  That is next.

First half is all about increasing:

Turn the knitting to the wrong side.  You are at the cuff edge and working on the sole needle.  Work in the double garter pattern stitch starting on row 2 (see Act I).  Place a marker after the cuff stitches (mine is red).  Purl the number of leg stitches for your size and place a marker (mine is blue).  Purl one stitch and place a marker (mine is white).  Purl one stitch and place a marker (mine is blue).  These three markers frame the area where the heel increases will occur.  Purl the number of foot stitches for your size minus one stitch.  Place a marker (mine is blue).  There should be one stitch left on the needle; this is the toe stitch for the sole needle.  Purl it.  Rotate to the next needle (still on the wrong side of the work).

Note:  If you wish to incorporate the gusset shaping, it happens on this row on the instep needle.  See the heel gusset information below.

You are now working on the instep needle.  Purl one toe stitch and place a marker (mine is blue).  Purl the number of foot stitches for your size.  Place a marker (mine is white).  Purl the number of leg stitches for your size plus one stitch (includes one of the "heel" stitches).  Place a marker (mine is red).  There should be just the cuff stitches remaining on the needle.  Work across them in double garter.  Turn work to the right side.  The difference between the number of foot and leg stitches on each needle is due to the heel stitches being separated out with additional markers where the heel shaping happens.

Note:  There is a method to my stitch marker colors.  I use red to mark the cuff.  Blue markers indicate where increasing and decreasing will occur (at the heel and toe).  White markers indicate the centerline of the heel.

Continue working across both needles.  You will always turn to the other side of the work when you reach the cuff, never at the toe.  Follow Nona's pattern for the number of stitches to increase at the heel and toe (for me that is 15 stitches at the heel and 16 stitches at the toe).  Use the increases described by Nona.

Note:  Because we are starting at the ankle, the instep needle is worked similarly to Act II (toe increases).  On the other hand, the sole needle is worked like Act IV (heel increases).  All of the increasing happens in the first half of the sock.

After a few rows, your sock should look like this:

The blue thread you see is basted along the cast-on row.  I put it there so you can see where we are working from.  This sock has the optional gusset shaping, making it chubby at the heel.

When all of the increasing is complete, work the number of rows indicated at the end of Act II plus the number of rows indicated at the beginning of Act III (for me that is 8+8=16).   At the middle of these rows you will be half way done.

Note: If you need to adjust for your row gauge, this is the time to do it.  See the tips below.

Your sock should like like this when it is halfway done:

The needles are at the centerline of the top of your foot and the centerline of the bottom of your foot.

Second half is all about decreasing:

Now we start decreasing toward the opposite side of the ankle (opposite to the side we started at).  Start decreasing  at the heel and toe.  If the number of heel stitches and toe stitches differ, start with the larger one.  For example, I have  15 stitches at the heel and 16 stitches at the toe.  On the first decrease row, I'll decrease only at the toe.  On the subsequent row, I'll have 15 stitches at the toe and at the heel.  (Remember these are the numbers for my size.  Your size may be different.)  You want the heel and toe stitches to be the same in number so that the decreasing finishes on the same row.  Use the decreases described by Nona.

Here is my sock a few rows before it is done:

You can see an almost complete toe on the left, the almost complete heel at the bottom, and the calf shaping.  You can see that the blue thread (cast-on row) runs right at the edge of the heel and along the edge of the foot to the base of the toe shaping.

Note:  If you are incorporating the heel gusset shaping, it happens on the last row of decreases on the instep needle.  See below for more information.

After the last row of decreases you have two options.  The first is to start grafting the sock together starting at the cuff and working towards the toe.  The second is to work across the first needle (half of a row) so the grafting starts at the toe.  This is the option to use if you are incorporating the optional heel gusset so that you don't have to graft and incorporate the yarnovers from the heel gusset short rows.  You may want to use the second option so that the double garter stitch works out to the right spot.  If you need some help with the grafting, check out Nona's Grafting Epiphany.

Here is the sock just before grafting:

Here it is after grafting:

I have left the basting in to show where the cast-on is and the difference the gusset shaping makes.

Tips:

How will you know when to start the garter stitch pattern at the back of the leg?  I do it this way.  Take the total number of rows In Act I (for me it is 21 rows) and subtract the row number where the leg switches to stockinette (for me it is row 12).  21-12=9.  The garter stitch pattern should start on a wrong side row.  If the number you got doesn't land on a wrong side row, start on the next wrong side row.  I started on row 10.  To help you know when to stop the garter stitch pattern, make a note of how many heel stitches (or toe stitches, they should be the same, right?) you have when you start.  Then you stop the garter stitch pattern when you decrease to that number on the other side of the foot.

If your row gauge is off just a little, you can increase or decrease the number of rows between the first and second halves of the sock.  Don't add or subtract too many.  I would stick to 1 or 2.  Remember, since you are working both top and bottom simultaneously, you are actually adding (or subtracting) two rows as counted by Nona for every row you add (or subtract) using this method.

Through trial and error, I discovered that an extra row at the halfway point would make the double garter cuff work out exactly.  I have not tried other sizes, so you'll need to assess this for your size.

Want more width at the leg?  I do.  I add extra short rows at the calf.  This sock has 5 short row garter ridges instead of the three in the original pattern.  My first sock was taller so I used a total of seven short row garter ridges.  Make each one 4 stitches longer than the last one.  I like to tuck them behind one full length garter ridge for a clean look.

If you are a tight knitter like me, you may want to knit the 4 stitches (instead of just the middle 2) at the middle of the heel loosely to have enough slack yarn for increasing on the next row.

Optional Heel Gusset:

I have high arches and generally stay away from short-row heels.  Sidewinders have a short row heel that is cleverly turned to be knit sideways.  Clever as it is, it fits like a short row heel.  After two pairs of Sidewinders this was the last lingering qualm I had about the pattern. 

Then it hit me.  Add a gusset:

 

The gusset consists of a few short rows just before the heel increases and just after the heel decreases.

Before the heel increases:

It happens on the very first row (right side) when you are knitting the stitches for the first time.  This does mean you will need to place your stitch markers on this row as follows: knit the cuff stitches, place a marker (mine is red), knit the number of leg stitches for your size plus one stitch (includes one of the "heel" stitches), place a marker (mine is white).

Now you will work the gusset short rows before completing the row.  Knit 4 stitches past the heel marker (mine is white), turn, yo, purl 4 stitches past the heel marker, turn, yo, k8 (when you get to the yo, knit it together with the adjacent stitch, the 8 stitches will be worked: k4, k2tog, k3), turn, yo, purl 8 (incorporate the yo as follows: p4, ssp, p3).  Repeat this process with 12 stitches each direction.  Turn, and continue the first row placing markers (and incorporating the short row yo): knit the number of foot stitches for your size (counting from the heel marker), place a marker (mine is blue).  There should be one stitch left on the needle; this is the toe stitch for the instep needle.  Place a marker (mine is blue) and knit it.  Continue working the sock pattern until the last row before grafting.

This picture shows black lines drawn over the gusset short rows.  So little doing so much.

On the instep needle on the last row, repeat the gusset process above starting with 4 stitches past the marker each direction. 

Well that is all the Sidewinder tricks I have up my sleeve.  Please let me know if you have any questions or corrections.  I'd love to hear them.

Toe-up Gusseted Heel

Warning:  This is a very picture heavy post.  Click on any picture to see a larger version.

I am a big fan of toe-up socks.  Partly because I have large feet and I always worry about running out of yarn and partly because it just feels right to me.  I also have high arches.  Afterthought and short-row heels don't give me the fit I am looking for.  I have been searching for the right heel and have even invented a few.  My Penny Socks and Banana Blossom Socks use two different attempts at finding the "right heel".  Both work in these patterns, but neither one is versatile enough to be used on any sock at any gauge. 

I started thinking about heel construction and realized that I was trying to reinvent the wheel.  Why not turn a top-down heel upside down?

It is pretty simple.  And, it works at all gauges.  I have tested it on socks knit at 6 sts/in and socks at 9.5 sts/in (shown in this tutorial) as well as fingering weight socks.  This tutorial will work the math for this sock for my foot (10.25 inches long).  I incorporate negative ease in the circumference and a little bit in the length of the foot because I like a snug fit.  You should adapt this to suit your foot.  I would love to hear what you learn.

Please note that the numbers in this tutorial are for the sock shown.  I have tried to make calculating these numbers straightforward.  (Let me know if this is not the case.)  You will need to calculate the numbers you need if you are using a different number of stitches.

This tutorial is designed for a high arch.  For a lower arch, see the modifications at the bottom.

Knit your sock from the toe-up using your favorite methods.  When it reaches about 65% of the total length of your foot you will start on the heel flap.  The math for calculating this is 10.25 inches x 0.65 = 6.7 inches.  I usually use about 6.5 inches.

The first time I used this method, I made the flap with all of the sole stitches.  The flap seemed to come up too far over my heel and it looked a bit clunky.  Now I use 2/3 of the sole stitches and it has a much cleaner look.  This sock is knit on 80 stitches, 40 soles stitches and 40 instep stitches.  So 40 sts x 2/3 = 26.7 sts.  I want an even number, either 26 or 28.  I used 26 sts for the flap.  This mean 14 sole stitches will remain unworked.  They are shown on the lower horizontal needle (7 sts on each side of the flap).  I don't knit with that needle as shown, it is just to help you see what I'm doing; it is awkward and unnecessary to have it there.  I place the extra stitches on the adjacent needles.  The pins are to keep the flap from rolling while I took the picture.

Work until the sock including the flap measures about 90 - 95% of the total length of your foot.  End on a right side (RS) row.  10.25 inches x 0.95 = 9.7 inches.  I used 9.5 inches.  Again the lower horizontal needle and pins are just for clarity. 

Here is what the sock looks like without the second horizontal needle.  It looks like a tie to me.

On to the heel shaping.  First we need to determine the number of heel stitches we will use.  The heel stitches will be the middle stitches (you'll see what they are in a minute).  I use 1+ inches.  In this case 10 stitches.  We need the remaining flap stitches to be divisible by 4.  Since this flap is worked on 26 sts and we are using 10 heel stitches, that leaves 16 stitches (I call them side stitches) which is divisible by 4.

Heel shaping starts on a wrong side (WS) row as follows:
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 2 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(WS) slip 1 purlwise, purl until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.
(RS) slip 1 knitwise, knit until 4 stitches remain on the left needle, turn work.

Continue in this manner until you have only the heel stitches (10) remaining, ending on a RS row.  In this case it is 10 heel stitches.  There should be 8 stitches on each side of the heel stitches.  8 +10 + 8 = 26 = the total number of flap stitches.  Turn work to the WS.

Now we need to incorporate these stitches.  You should be on a WS row.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches - 2 (for this sock it is 10 - 2 = 8), slip=slip-purl (SSP, see below), purl 1, turn work.  Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches - 1 (10 - 1 = 9), k2tog, knit 1, turn work.  Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 purlwise, purl heel stitches (10), SSP, purl 1, turn work.  Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
slip1 knitwise, knit heel stitches + 1 (10 + 1 = 11), k2tog, knit 1, turn work.  Even number of stitches remaining on left needle.
Continue in this manner until all the side stitches have been incorporated.  There will be fewer stitches now than you worked on the flap.  Half of the side stitches have been decreased by the SSP's and k2tog's.  For this sock, there should be 10 heel stitches plus half of the side stitches (10 + 16/2 = 10 + 8 = 18).

Here is another view of the heel from the side.  As you can see there are no holes, just a clean look.

Now we need to pick up gusset stitches along each side of the flap.  To make this easier, I evenly divide the stitches at the heel onto 2 needles.

Pick up one stitch in every slipped stitch along the side of the flap.  I pick up both loops of the slipped stitch because I prefer that look.  When you get to the base of the flap there will be a gap between the last slipped stitch and the rest of the foot stitches.

Pick up one more stitch (gap stitch), one row below the last slipped stitch.  With the same needle, work across the sole stitches that were set aside when you reduced the flap to 2/3 of the sole stitches.  I like to do this so that when I work the gusset decreases, I am not at a gap between needles.  It helps to keep the decreases snug and clean looking.  It also returns the stitches on the instep needles to their original number.

Repeat (but in reverse) for the other side of the flap.  When all of the stitches are picked up, it will look like this.  I now consider the back of the heel to be the start of the round.  Work one round before the gusset decreases.

We will now decrease the gusset stitches until we are back to the original number of stitches at the foot (80 for this sock).  Since the instep needles are restored to their original number of stitches (20 each), we will decrease until the sole needles have the same number of stitches (20 x 4 = 80).

For a clean look I like to align the gusset decreases with the column of stitches adjacent to the flap stitches.

Here is an annotated version of the gusset decrease alignment.  As it happens, the cleanest look comes from using the gap stitch as the line for decreasing.

Decreases are worked as follows:

Work from the back of the heel to one stitch before the first gap stitch, k2tog, work to the second gap stitch, ssk, work the rest of the round.  Repeat this decrease round on every other row until you have the correct number of stitches.

Here is how it will look after a few rounds.

And, after decreases are complete.

Finish the leg and cuff as you desire.

A pdf version of this tutorial will be is available shortly (as a link in the side bar with the other tutorial links).

Abbreviations:
k2tog: knit two stitches together by putting your needle into the second stitch and then the first stitch.

ssk: slip, slip, knit.  Slip 1 knitwise (as if to knit), slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle and knit the stitches together through the back of the loop.

SSP: slip, slip, purl.  Slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 knitwise, place both stitches back on the left needle, purl the two stitches together by putting the needle through the back of the second stitch and then the first stitch (see picture at right).

sts: abbreviation for stitches.

Tips:
Pull all slipped stitches tight.  This will help prevent holes at the heel shaping.

I find it easiest to do the gusset decreases on pattern rows (assuming that the pattern stitch is worked on every other row).  That way I know all the thinking is happening on one round.  It helps me keep track of what I'm doing.

Modifications:
For a lower arch, work the foot longer, maybe to 75% of the total foot length.  The flap will still be worked until it is 90 - 95% of the total foot length.  The flap will end up shorter and therefor you will have fewer stitches to pick up along the flap and fewer stitches to decrease.

You may want to adjust the number of flap stitches slightly to work with the stitch pattern at the leg. 

I hope you find this tutorial helpful.  Please let me know if you have any questions.

I view my tutorials and patterns as guidelines.  Please make any modifications that make sense for your style and fit.  And, then, tell me what you have learned.

UPDATE:  January 10, 2008
Lilli in Finland has posted a Finnish translation of this tutorial.  It is worth checking out even if you don't speak Finnish.  She has mad a chart of the heel turn that is quite helpful.  Thank you Lilli!